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	<title>Comments for O ECOTEXTILES</title>
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		<title>Comment on What does organic wool mean? by oecotextiles</title>
		<link>http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2009/08/11/what-does-organic-wool-mean/#comment-254</link>
		<dc:creator>oecotextiles</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2009 04:18:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/?p=338#comment-254</guid>
		<description>Hi Marcia:   I&#039;m afraid I don&#039;t know of any retail websites which have wool for sale, but I do know that knitters are passionate about the craft and love their wool!  Perhaps there are some websites which have forums where you can ask this question?  My answer will always be the same, when looking for any organic product - first, look for the certifications.  A company which has invested the (considerable) time and money into a certification will surely have that information available for their products.  And remember for wool it&#039;s the same as for other fibers - there are certifications for the fiber, and also for the processing.  So if you find organic wool it&#039;s important to ask whether the processing was also certified.  The best would be to find GOTS certified wool products.   But it&#039;s also true that these certifications cost quite a bit of money, and for smaller companies, especially, that could mean a hardship.   So if you find a company that you trust to provide a safe, ethically raised product for your baby, listen to your heart.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Marcia:   I&#8217;m afraid I don&#8217;t know of any retail websites which have wool for sale, but I do know that knitters are passionate about the craft and love their wool!  Perhaps there are some websites which have forums where you can ask this question?  My answer will always be the same, when looking for any organic product &#8211; first, look for the certifications.  A company which has invested the (considerable) time and money into a certification will surely have that information available for their products.  And remember for wool it&#8217;s the same as for other fibers &#8211; there are certifications for the fiber, and also for the processing.  So if you find organic wool it&#8217;s important to ask whether the processing was also certified.  The best would be to find GOTS certified wool products.   But it&#8217;s also true that these certifications cost quite a bit of money, and for smaller companies, especially, that could mean a hardship.   So if you find a company that you trust to provide a safe, ethically raised product for your baby, listen to your heart.</p>
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		<title>Comment on What does organic wool mean? by Marcia</title>
		<link>http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2009/08/11/what-does-organic-wool-mean/#comment-253</link>
		<dc:creator>Marcia</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:03:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/?p=338#comment-253</guid>
		<description>I&#039;m looking for very clean wool for my baby that was ethically raised and made. Thank you so much for addressing every ethical issue in the process of getting wool ready to put on the market. Can you suggest websites to purchase it from that keep it good and clean every step of the way?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m looking for very clean wool for my baby that was ethically raised and made. Thank you so much for addressing every ethical issue in the process of getting wool ready to put on the market. Can you suggest websites to purchase it from that keep it good and clean every step of the way?</p>
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		<title>Comment on Why is recycled polyester considered a sustainable textile? by Milan</title>
		<link>http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2009/07/14/why-is-recycled-polyester-considered-a-sustainable-textile/#comment-252</link>
		<dc:creator>Milan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Nov 2009 11:02:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/?p=295#comment-252</guid>
		<description>Thank you for your prompt response and let me express my support for your work, you&#039;re doing an excellent work.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thank you for your prompt response and let me express my support for your work, you&#8217;re doing an excellent work.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Why is recycled polyester considered a sustainable textile? by oecotextiles</title>
		<link>http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2009/07/14/why-is-recycled-polyester-considered-a-sustainable-textile/#comment-251</link>
		<dc:creator>oecotextiles</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 Nov 2009 22:02:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/?p=295#comment-251</guid>
		<description>Hi Milan:  You know, just today I heard a great line:  &quot;Don&#039;t expect to buy green products from brown companies&quot;.  That means that there are lots of companies jumping on the bandwagon - maybe they&#039;ll add a couple of green products, or if they&#039;re a fabric distributor with 60,000 skus  they&#039;ll introduce their new &quot;green&quot; collection of 48 skus.  What percent of 60,000 is 48? (I actually used an online percentage calculator and got an answer that was so low as to be NA!).  Do you think that company is seriously trying to make a difference?  Well, Patagonia is NOT one of those brown companies.  I&#039;ve been impressed by Patagonia&#039;s committment to our environment and the many steps they have taken for so long - in terms of research, new trials, new products, the whole works.  There is a web site which gives an update on their Common Threads program (the recycling of garments) where you can read about some of the issues they&#039;re grappeling with (http://www.thecleanestline.com/2009/03/closing-the-loop-a-report-on-patagonias-common-threads-garment-recycling-program.html).  And though there are some unresolved issues about recycling polyester - and using plastics - I would support Patagonia because their heart&#039;s in the right place and I trust them.   And I would never think they&#039;d sell a fabric for their jackets that has not been thoroughly tested.  After all, they need to remain a vigorous company to fight the good fight!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Milan:  You know, just today I heard a great line:  &#8220;Don&#8217;t expect to buy green products from brown companies&#8221;.  That means that there are lots of companies jumping on the bandwagon &#8211; maybe they&#8217;ll add a couple of green products, or if they&#8217;re a fabric distributor with 60,000 skus  they&#8217;ll introduce their new &#8220;green&#8221; collection of 48 skus.  What percent of 60,000 is 48? (I actually used an online percentage calculator and got an answer that was so low as to be NA!).  Do you think that company is seriously trying to make a difference?  Well, Patagonia is NOT one of those brown companies.  I&#8217;ve been impressed by Patagonia&#8217;s committment to our environment and the many steps they have taken for so long &#8211; in terms of research, new trials, new products, the whole works.  There is a web site which gives an update on their Common Threads program (the recycling of garments) where you can read about some of the issues they&#8217;re grappeling with (<a href="http://www.thecleanestline.com/2009/03/closing-the-loop-a-report-on-patagonias-common-threads-garment-recycling-program.html)" rel="nofollow">http://www.thecleanestline.com/2009/03/closing-the-loop-a-report-on-patagonias-common-threads-garment-recycling-program.html)</a>.  And though there are some unresolved issues about recycling polyester &#8211; and using plastics &#8211; I would support Patagonia because their heart&#8217;s in the right place and I trust them.   And I would never think they&#8217;d sell a fabric for their jackets that has not been thoroughly tested.  After all, they need to remain a vigorous company to fight the good fight!</p>
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		<title>Comment on Why is recycled polyester considered a sustainable textile? by Milan</title>
		<link>http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2009/07/14/why-is-recycled-polyester-considered-a-sustainable-textile/#comment-250</link>
		<dc:creator>Milan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 04 Nov 2009 21:31:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/?p=295#comment-250</guid>
		<description>I&#039;m sorry if I&#039;m bringing old topics back to life, but I have a question and I&#039;m hoping you can help me with my dilemma. I&#039;m looking for a skiing jacket and Patagonia is making great ones out of recycled polyester. Is it a smart thing to buy? If we suppose that they are using mechanical recycling method does that mean that the jackets they make have weaker fabric?
Thanks in advance,
Milan</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m sorry if I&#8217;m bringing old topics back to life, but I have a question and I&#8217;m hoping you can help me with my dilemma. I&#8217;m looking for a skiing jacket and Patagonia is making great ones out of recycled polyester. Is it a smart thing to buy? If we suppose that they are using mechanical recycling method does that mean that the jackets they make have weaker fabric?<br />
Thanks in advance,<br />
Milan</p>
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		<title>Comment on Certifications &#8211; what to look for in textiles by oecotextiles</title>
		<link>http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2009/10/13/certifications-what-to-look-for-in-textiles/#comment-247</link>
		<dc:creator>oecotextiles</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Oct 2009 15:10:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/?p=451#comment-247</guid>
		<description>Hi Jackie:  I&#039;m glad you&#039;re bringing this up because the textile industry has not exactly been the poster child for advances in fair labor standards by any means.  The new Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) has a relatively extensive social justice component, as does the new Oeko Tex Standard 100 Plus; SMaRT Sustainable Textile Standard also has a social component, though not as extensive as the other two.    Then there is the Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production (WRAP) organization, which is &quot;dedicated to the certification of lawful, humane and ethical manufacturing (of sewn products) throughout the world&quot;  Another one is the Fair Wear Foundation, whose members work towards improving the labor conditions in factories that produce garments throughout the world.  In an earlier post (&quot;How much does that lower price fabric really cost?&quot;, 8.25.09) I talked about the group &quot;War on Want&quot;,  a UK-based organization which has an on-going campaign for corporate accountability in the textile sector.  There are also local organizations which promote workers rights, such as the National Garment Workers’ Federation (NGWF) in Bangladesh and Colectiva de Mujeres Hondurenas (CODEMUH) in Honduras.   Also see our post on child labor in the cotton fields, “Happy May Day”, published on May 1, 2009.

But all of these organizations are focused on the sewn product arena; those workers who work in the mills have often been overlooked.  From the August 8 post we make this plea:  &quot; support those companies that are having their goods certified by third parties like Oeko Tex or GOTS.  It costs money to have the certification process completed, in addition to the water treatment they must put in place, or any other changes that must be made to be compliant.  GOTS has many requirements in the social justice area: no forced or bonded labor, no child labor, fair wages, the ability of workers to do collective bargaining, mandated rest periods, and safe and hygenic working conditions are just some of the requirements under GOTS.    Some companies which HAD been certified are choosing to save money by not paying the fees to have the certifications extended when their payments become due&quot;  because the market is not demanding these certifications.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Jackie:  I&#8217;m glad you&#8217;re bringing this up because the textile industry has not exactly been the poster child for advances in fair labor standards by any means.  The new Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) has a relatively extensive social justice component, as does the new Oeko Tex Standard 100 Plus; SMaRT Sustainable Textile Standard also has a social component, though not as extensive as the other two.    Then there is the Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production (WRAP) organization, which is &#8220;dedicated to the certification of lawful, humane and ethical manufacturing (of sewn products) throughout the world&#8221;  Another one is the Fair Wear Foundation, whose members work towards improving the labor conditions in factories that produce garments throughout the world.  In an earlier post (&#8220;How much does that lower price fabric really cost?&#8221;, 8.25.09) I talked about the group &#8220;War on Want&#8221;,  a UK-based organization which has an on-going campaign for corporate accountability in the textile sector.  There are also local organizations which promote workers rights, such as the National Garment Workers’ Federation (NGWF) in Bangladesh and Colectiva de Mujeres Hondurenas (CODEMUH) in Honduras.   Also see our post on child labor in the cotton fields, “Happy May Day”, published on May 1, 2009.</p>
<p>But all of these organizations are focused on the sewn product arena; those workers who work in the mills have often been overlooked.  From the August 8 post we make this plea:  &#8221; support those companies that are having their goods certified by third parties like Oeko Tex or GOTS.  It costs money to have the certification process completed, in addition to the water treatment they must put in place, or any other changes that must be made to be compliant.  GOTS has many requirements in the social justice area: no forced or bonded labor, no child labor, fair wages, the ability of workers to do collective bargaining, mandated rest periods, and safe and hygenic working conditions are just some of the requirements under GOTS.    Some companies which HAD been certified are choosing to save money by not paying the fees to have the certifications extended when their payments become due&#8221;  because the market is not demanding these certifications.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Certifications &#8211; what to look for in textiles by Jackie DeCarlo</title>
		<link>http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2009/10/13/certifications-what-to-look-for-in-textiles/#comment-246</link>
		<dc:creator>Jackie DeCarlo</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Oct 2009 11:05:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/?p=451#comment-246</guid>
		<description>Leigh Anne,  You sure know your stuff (and have educated readers to help fill in any gaps).  I wonder if you have thoughts on social certifications related to textiles.  Particularly I am interested in experiences, analysis of those concerned with wage, labor and community investment practices through Fair Trade.  Any thoughts welcome as I try to navigate not just the world of Fair Trade (which I am familiar with) but also the complexities of the textile industry, labor concerns, etc.
Jackie</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Leigh Anne,  You sure know your stuff (and have educated readers to help fill in any gaps).  I wonder if you have thoughts on social certifications related to textiles.  Particularly I am interested in experiences, analysis of those concerned with wage, labor and community investment practices through Fair Trade.  Any thoughts welcome as I try to navigate not just the world of Fair Trade (which I am familiar with) but also the complexities of the textile industry, labor concerns, etc.<br />
Jackie</p>
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		<title>Comment on Prosperity without growth by Gudrun Freese</title>
		<link>http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2009/10/27/prosperity-without-growth/#comment-243</link>
		<dc:creator>Gudrun Freese</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Oct 2009 09:50:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/?p=532#comment-243</guid>
		<description>Sorry - to clarify the above:

The book Prosperity Without Growth: Economics for a Finite Planet is a completely revised and updated version of the SDC report. It will be published on the 2nd November by Earthscan. You can get it here: www.earthscan.co.uk/pwg

Thanks, Gudrun</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sorry &#8211; to clarify the above:</p>
<p>The book Prosperity Without Growth: Economics for a Finite Planet is a completely revised and updated version of the SDC report. It will be published on the 2nd November by Earthscan. You can get it here: <a href="http://www.earthscan.co.uk/pwg" rel="nofollow">http://www.earthscan.co.uk/pwg</a></p>
<p>Thanks, Gudrun</p>
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		<title>Comment on Clarification regarding GreenGuard certification by Hernandez</title>
		<link>http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2009/10/23/clarification-regarding-greenguard-certification/#comment-241</link>
		<dc:creator>Hernandez</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 25 Oct 2009 21:52:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/?p=529#comment-241</guid>
		<description>I like your factual approach!

Did Mr. Jacobs mention that before he was Technical Information Manager for Greenguard he was the Marketing Manager for Air Quality Sciences?  

At best, non-profit Greenguard is no more independent from the for-profit Air Quality Sciences than siblings with the same parent.  At worst, Greenguard may only have independence from AQS on paper.

In early spring this year, Air Quality Sciences posted job openings for a marketing manager and for an account manager (I will email you copies).  The description for the AQS market manager says in part:

&quot;This position will be responsible for overseeing marketing programs designed to drive GREENGUARD brand awareness and help achieve defined revenue goals.&quot;  

Two of the &quot;ESSENTIAL DUTIES&quot; listed for the AQS market manager include:  

&quot;Manage GREENGUARD website re-design, including directing the agency and working cross functionally with key internal department to deliver a best in class solution.&quot;  

And:

&quot;Develop and implement consumer activation program to educate defined target consumer on importance of indoor air quality and drive awareness for GREENGUARD.&quot;

These job postings are no longer on the AQS website, and now similar job postings are listed as Greenguard jobs on the Greenguard website.  However, Greenguard and AQS continue to &quot;share&quot; a headquarters and personnel.  

I think this is an obvious conflict-of-interest with an unstated focus on profit, (every manufacturer who participates in Greenguard must pay AQS for testing, who by definition is a for-profit testing business), which seriously undermines the credibility of the Greenguard certification. 

Even worse, Greenguard/AQS press releases have been targeting new parents and focusing on furnishings for infants (try counting the number of children in photos on their website).  Chemical toxicity, indoor air quality, and children&#039;s health are serious issues, but Greenguard/AQS has not published the ventilation conditions of their proprietary requirements for certifying children&#039;s furniture for homes and bedrooms.  

This is important, because the concentration of a contaminant (amount present in a lungful of air) depends on how much clean air is supplied in a space.  Greenguard/AQS uses limits for contaminants based on commercial office and school classroom ventilation rates, which usually have much more clean air supplied.  Without knowing how much ventilation is used when cribs are certified, users have no way to know if the products exceed the stated limits in their own homes.  

As you pointed out, Greenguard requirements only address chemicals emitted into air.  They do not address toxic content.  Much of children&#039;s exposure is oral and dermal (through skin).  

As you also mentioned, Greenguard for Children &amp; schools includes requirements for phthalates.  Danish and US research indicates phthalates are showing up in dust, and are not emitted by materials the same way volatile compounds are (volatiles emit faster).  Yet, Greenguard uses testing intended for volatiles, which has not been shown to be effective when detecting phthalate exposure.  Therefore I think an assurance from Greenguard about phthalates is very misleading. 

And Greenguard/AQS certifying fabrics alone is often not particularly helpful, as it does not mean that when the fabrics are applied to other products that the products are low in VOC emissions.  

Of course, Greenguard certifying fabrics alone does create another whole industry to provide ongoing revenue for AQS (quarterly, annually, etc.).</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I like your factual approach!</p>
<p>Did Mr. Jacobs mention that before he was Technical Information Manager for Greenguard he was the Marketing Manager for Air Quality Sciences?  </p>
<p>At best, non-profit Greenguard is no more independent from the for-profit Air Quality Sciences than siblings with the same parent.  At worst, Greenguard may only have independence from AQS on paper.</p>
<p>In early spring this year, Air Quality Sciences posted job openings for a marketing manager and for an account manager (I will email you copies).  The description for the AQS market manager says in part:</p>
<p>&#8220;This position will be responsible for overseeing marketing programs designed to drive GREENGUARD brand awareness and help achieve defined revenue goals.&#8221;  </p>
<p>Two of the &#8220;ESSENTIAL DUTIES&#8221; listed for the AQS market manager include:  </p>
<p>&#8220;Manage GREENGUARD website re-design, including directing the agency and working cross functionally with key internal department to deliver a best in class solution.&#8221;  </p>
<p>And:</p>
<p>&#8220;Develop and implement consumer activation program to educate defined target consumer on importance of indoor air quality and drive awareness for GREENGUARD.&#8221;</p>
<p>These job postings are no longer on the AQS website, and now similar job postings are listed as Greenguard jobs on the Greenguard website.  However, Greenguard and AQS continue to &#8220;share&#8221; a headquarters and personnel.  </p>
<p>I think this is an obvious conflict-of-interest with an unstated focus on profit, (every manufacturer who participates in Greenguard must pay AQS for testing, who by definition is a for-profit testing business), which seriously undermines the credibility of the Greenguard certification. </p>
<p>Even worse, Greenguard/AQS press releases have been targeting new parents and focusing on furnishings for infants (try counting the number of children in photos on their website).  Chemical toxicity, indoor air quality, and children&#8217;s health are serious issues, but Greenguard/AQS has not published the ventilation conditions of their proprietary requirements for certifying children&#8217;s furniture for homes and bedrooms.  </p>
<p>This is important, because the concentration of a contaminant (amount present in a lungful of air) depends on how much clean air is supplied in a space.  Greenguard/AQS uses limits for contaminants based on commercial office and school classroom ventilation rates, which usually have much more clean air supplied.  Without knowing how much ventilation is used when cribs are certified, users have no way to know if the products exceed the stated limits in their own homes.  </p>
<p>As you pointed out, Greenguard requirements only address chemicals emitted into air.  They do not address toxic content.  Much of children&#8217;s exposure is oral and dermal (through skin).  </p>
<p>As you also mentioned, Greenguard for Children &amp; schools includes requirements for phthalates.  Danish and US research indicates phthalates are showing up in dust, and are not emitted by materials the same way volatile compounds are (volatiles emit faster).  Yet, Greenguard uses testing intended for volatiles, which has not been shown to be effective when detecting phthalate exposure.  Therefore I think an assurance from Greenguard about phthalates is very misleading. </p>
<p>And Greenguard/AQS certifying fabrics alone is often not particularly helpful, as it does not mean that when the fabrics are applied to other products that the products are low in VOC emissions.  </p>
<p>Of course, Greenguard certifying fabrics alone does create another whole industry to provide ongoing revenue for AQS (quarterly, annually, etc.).</p>
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		<title>Comment on Certifications &#8211; what to look for in textiles by Rebecca Graham</title>
		<link>http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2009/10/13/certifications-what-to-look-for-in-textiles/#comment-235</link>
		<dc:creator>Rebecca Graham</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 15 Oct 2009 16:17:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/?p=451#comment-235</guid>
		<description>Hi there- Another important player is Scientific Certification Systems, a pioneer in environmental certification. With 25 years of experience in the field, SCS authored the recycling standard on which the Global Recycling Standard is based, and currently audits and certifies to that standard. SCS also provides indoor air quality certification for fibers (such as wallcoverings or upholstery) with its SCS Indoor Advantage label.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi there- Another important player is Scientific Certification Systems, a pioneer in environmental certification. With 25 years of experience in the field, SCS authored the recycling standard on which the Global Recycling Standard is based, and currently audits and certifies to that standard. SCS also provides indoor air quality certification for fibers (such as wallcoverings or upholstery) with its SCS Indoor Advantage label.</p>
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